End of Juni I was in Sanremo for a little escapade with Hubby.
It was one of those last minutes decision, I was looking for an address in google maps and by mistake I moved the mouse and the pointer landed there, in Saremo. I thought oh nice name, sounds familiar, and only 3 hours drive from La Ciotat!
I asked Xavier, if he would you like to go to Sanremo or his next day off. “Sounds nice” he says, and directly booked a Hotel with Spa and view to the Sea. He didn’t tell me which hotel to surprise me.
We hit the road at 10 am on Monday to avoid the rush hour and the stocking traffic near Toulon.
After 3 hours road trip with a small stop to get gas, we arrived punctually for lunch.
The first impression of the city was a bit to much: to noisy, to big, to hot. We were expecting something more “Mediterranean and relaxing.” We were a bit disappointed with the industrial look of the port and the beaches.
The hotel "Villa Sylva & Spa" on the other side was such a great relaxing place! Housed in a beautiful 18th century villa and in front of Villa Nobel, home of the famous inventor and founder of the Nobel Prize, Alfred Nobelis and close to the city center. Our room had a small terrasse with sea view, where we took our breakfast next morning accompanied by very peculiar neighbors who invited themselves and eat all the ham!
We spent the afternoon at the spa, resting after the long drive.
For dinner we went to the city center, without knowing about the treasure that she hides; the historic center of Sanremo that we would discover the next morning!
That night we eat and drink for free, because we were lucky to pass by a restaurant with a terrasse and live music that was celebrating their inauguration. They just invite us in the very festive Italian way.
All the way from the Hotel to the to the city center (about 1,5 km) is lined with villas dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries and aristocratic gardens covered with flourishing fruit trees. During the walk I admired the impressive architectural structures in Liberty style (Art Nouveau style). Some of the gardens reminded me the vegetation of Cuba!
Sanremo is also known for its Jazz Festival, and now I remember why SANREMO sounds familiar I heard that name in “The Talented Mr. Ripley” from Patricia Highsmith, an American novelist and short story writer widely known for her psychological thrillers. If you don’t know the novel there is also a film with the same name starring Matt Damon, Jude Law, Gwyneth Paltrow, Cate Blanchett and Philip Seymour Hoffman. The last stop of the two main characters ended in Sanremo, where they went to experience the Sanremo Jazz Festival and Lifestyle.
Further up, in Piazza Cassini and leaving the Chiesa di Santo Stefano on the right, the streets become cobblestone roads and we enter ancient grooved passages, surprisingly cool in the summer heat. A labyrinth of stone arches, narrow streets and colorful buildings from Roman times and even older. Very different from anything I have seen in Europe so far.
– Federico Fellini
Do you want to eat typical Italian?
We stopped for lunch at the little family restaurant IL MULATTIERE in one of those grooved passages. If you want to experience the good Italian cuisine this is the place to go.
Even though the midday heat was challenging we didn’t hesitate to order the fish soup and the Gnocchis. All homemade, fresh and delicious. The soup was a revelation and I the gnocchis were just perfect. The service adorable! Italians are really nice and they do speak French and English, at least in Sanremo.
After Lunch and 2 biers we were feeling sleepy but we still had a few hours before driving back home So we keep exploring the old passages and climbing the stairs to arrive to the Giardini Regina Elena, a beautiful garden in terraces where we could enjoy a view over the city. The garden culminate at the Santuario della Madonna della Costa.
Even though I’m not a religious person and I don’t believe in God either, I do love to visit European churches and cathedrals. I like the smell and the peace (when no tourists around) in those places. Very often I feel overwhelmed with so much beauty, so much work, art and history in those walls!
When I went into the Santuario della Madonna della Costa in Sanremo I lay down on the floor on my back and starred the amazing sealing and the vault for a few minutes, with stuccoes and frescoes by Giacomo Antonio Boni. There were just Xavier and I, the wooden statues attributed to the sculptor Anton Maria Maragliano of Santa Margherita Ligure and above the high altar the Madonna and Child painted by Nicolò da Voltri.
According to some historians the birth of the sanctuary could be dated back to 1361 but the present structure of the sanctuary was built in 1630 to replace the previous church.
The statues were looking at us and I looked back, waiting for them to move at any moment, so real felt them! Some chants of monks in the background put the final magic note to the experience.
After a little siesta under the trees of the garden we took the road home.
Arrivederci Sanremo
(Or until we meet again)
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